Inuyama Castle - Part 2

Now I've been to castles in England before, and arriving here I was expecting something in roughly the same vein: a lot of old stones, somewhat restored, with kind of a crummy interior museum. That was mostly correct, but the way it's presented was unexpected.

What I wasn't counting on were the particulars of Japanese castle construction. Sure the outer walls and base are made of stone, but the rest of the thing is wood. As such, the castle interior is treated like a home: no shoes. Slippers are provided for visitors to use while inside, and as what I've determined to be a cruel joke (although I'm sure she'll disagree) A grabbed a pair for me to use. Unfortunately I don't think they were expecting these one-size-fits-all slippers to be used by size thirteen feet - the heel of the slipper stretched no further than the arch of my foot. "So I'll be scuffing around..." I think to myself "No big deal."

Again, I was unprepared for Japanese castle architecture: In order to make the castle difficult for invaders to enter, it's only possible to get inside via steep wooden stairs. Wooden stairs polished slippery smooth by the shuffling feet of thousands of slipper wearing visitors... Even in good shoes I would have been rather nervous about negotiating these stairs, and in my ill-fitting footwear I was downright unsettled. It ended up being simpler than I anticipated, with long legs making it much easier to take the high steps than it was for the locals. This kind of attraction isn't remotely handicap accessible.

The reward for braving the treacherous climb up several crowded flights of stairs to the top was an incredible view of the surrounding area. There was a narrow lookout platform around the top floor of the castle which was exhilaratingly unsafe - the railing around the edge only came up to my knee. Not exactly the kind of national historic site presentation that would fly in the US, but it seems to make perfect sense here.

I've been told that if you've seen one Japanese castle you've seen them all, and I'm inclined to agree with that for the interior. The exterior was by far my favorite part of the excursion, and I wouldn't be opposed to browsing the grounds of others during my stay here.

Inuyama Castle - Part 1

Last weekend A and I visited Inuyama Castle, which is supposedly the oldest castle in Japan. It's all a bit debatable when it comes to 'oldest' since many were destroyed, moved, rebuilt, etc, but this one seems to have the claim on the oldest original castle tied up without much debate.

The location of the castle is scenic; high on a cliff overlooking a river. The castle naturally wasn't built to be scenic, it was built for maximum visibility, and being difficult to approach. It may have been built in the 1400's, but it succeeds admirably at both to this day - The castle was always in view, but getting close for parking was next to impossible. We ended up tucking our car between the road and a sidewalk near a public toilet along the river, and walking up the hill to the castle.

I knew there was an entrance fee (500 yen) for the castle, but was suprised that so much of the castle grounds were fair game for browsing for free. A series of small shrines and gardens have grown up on the sides of the hill the castle stands on, and throughly exploring those on their own could kill your entire afternoon. We were on a mission however - the castle was closing in an hour and a half, and we had some site-seeing to do!

Stay tuned tomorrow for tales from the castle interior...

Boss

I watched 'Lost In Translation' over the weekend, which is a funny experience when you're living in the country in question. For those not familiar, Bill Murray plays an American actor visiting Japan to promote Suntory Whiskey. ("For relaxing times, make it Suntory time.") The product endorsement is the target of jokes throughout the movie, which makes this real-world example that much worse...

I know it's been covered by M and A already, but I can't help it: Behold - Tommy Lee Jones is Boss. The Boss? Maybe that's still Springsteen, even in Japan. How exactly does Tommy's weathered face help sell canned beverages? I'm not entirely sure. They're getting free exposure because I took a picture of the machine, but all the folks in the US can't buy Suntory products even if they wanted to! Maybe 'No Country For Old Men' was just really popular here.

Shopping Shenanigans

After mentioning that I got into trouble for taking photos in the department store in my caption for this photo over on Flickr, I've gotten a few questions about what exactly went down.

The fact is I'm not exactly inconspicuous over here. I'm about a foot taller than what seems to be the average height, and at the time I had this thing dangling around my neck. (not my photo) That I started shooting in the department of the store with the highest staff presence (costumes) probably also didn't help. After I snapped this one photo of the spandex body suits, a clerk very politely asked me not to take photos, and I was happy to oblige.

Walking around the store later, I spotted small signs which actually mention their 'no photos' policy, so I was feeling a bit embarrassed I was unknowingly going against their rules. I guess it makes sense, considering even stores at home wouldn't exactly take kindly to you browsing the store with photographic hardware like that visible, let alone using it.

When it comes down to it, I'll take mild embarrassment to missing a good photo every time. Even when it doesn't work out, it makes for a good story.

A visit to downtown Nagoya

Saturday was my first trip on the subway, and also a first look at the heart of Nagoya. It's maybe a twenty minute trip by subway, and we're by no means living in the sticks, so that should give an indication of just how large this city really is.

The downtown area and the subway, like the rest of the city, is impressively clean. I've never ridden in a subway car without rider-inflicted damage... the underground in London always had scratches and graffiti, torn seats and stuck gum. The Nagoya subway was spotless - even the windows were clean! Getting around was reasonably straightforward too, since most signs and announcements were in both English and Japanese.

Sakae Station was a different matter; you exit the subway into what is essentially an underground mall. So busy! Restaurants and stores are spread in all directions, and simply getting out of the station at the correct exit can be pretty difficult.

We were visiting the area for a bit of sightseeing / shopping at some of the large downtown stores like Loft and Tokyo Hands. These department stores are crazy, carrying everything from groceries to bicycles on their multiple floors. Tokyo Hands was a little claustrophobic for me, since the shelves were packed very closely together, but Loft was more western in scale. (which makes sense since the goods they carry are also more western in style) They also don't like photography (I found this out the hard way) so photos from the stores are unfortunately absent.

Navigating the crowds was tiring, and at the end of the day I was happy to return to the apartment. I can see where those stores could be useful when you have a shopping agenda, but for browsing it's a pretty exhausting process!

Grocery Store Bento Box

Look at this feast! I picked this up for lunch on Monday, and I'm really impressed with how tasty it was. For 499 yen (about $5.30) the following items were included (starting in the upper left, moving clockwise):

• Potato salad, and a slice of rolled omelet
  
• Two pieces of fried chicken with lemon
• A salad of pickled vegetables (and maybe squid?)
• Shredded crab on a bed of rice
• Misc. pickled vegetables
• Glazed chicken dumpling, and a breaded, fried shrimp

It's fast food prices, but quality and variety unlike anything I can get for lunch at home. The next step is stopping by a restaurant that puts these together for takeout, rather than just hitting the nearby grocery store.

Money Tray

One of the things that struck me when I first went though a Japanese store was use of a little tray for your money when you pay for something.  For having a reputation of being very technologically forward, nearly all shopping transactions are still conducted using cash, and the exchange at the register reflects this.  After you've been given a price by the cashier, you place the money you intend to pay with onto a small tray; you don't hand the money over directly.  Sometimes more than one tray gets involved, where your change gets placed in a second tray while your original money remains set aside until the transaction is complete.  While it has something to do politeness, it also serves as a good delay for me - I'm not 100% familiar with the coins and often need a moment to count out what I need!

I'm where exactly?

As I mentioned earlier, I have iPhone along for the ride, although I'm not allowing it to connect to the cell network.  As an iPod Touch though, it's still quite effective when it comes to web browsing and email checking.  One unexpected piece of functionality is that the 'find my location' function in Google Maps still works over here.  (A company by the name of Skyhook Wireless can find a location based on the nearby wifi sources)

When I first arrived, the only wifi signal belonged to a neighbor, and the iPhone had the location nailed within half a block.  After setting up a wireless router Skyhook believes to be located in Michigan in this apartment, the iPhone is now thoroughly confused and no longer provides a location.  It makes sense - if there are only two signals to go by, and they're on different sides of the planet, I'd rather have the phone not make a decision than guess wrong!

Japanese Home Supplies

Venturing a bit deeper into the pool today... Moving my clothes in the apartment's main closet consumed the remaining empty hangers yesterday, so a shopping trip was in order to expand the supply. The store we traveled to was essentially a Japanese version of Bed, Bath & Beyond, complemented with a second story furniture annex. There were also a lot of similarities with Ikea, being high in style and low in cost. The store was impressive in its scale and selection; If there's one area where the Japanese have the US beat hands down, it's cool, affordable interior decorating.

In the afternoon, A and I took a walk to a nearby shrine where we were treated to the resident monk ringing the massive bell while we were browsing around the grounds. I've never heard one of those bells in-person, and the resonant effect of being so close was unexpectedly moving.

I have arrived!

And what an arrival it has been. I seem to have dodged the worst of the jet lag - prior to my departure I was up until 5am packing, so after napping on the plane I was still ready to go to bed in the Nagoya evening. Last night was a perfectly restful evening, no insomnia all Lost in Translation style!

The 'World Business Class' flight was terribly pleasant. The flight, despite its 13ish hour duration, seemed shorter than a flight to California. I was eating and drinking about 30% of my time on the plane, and the rest was spent sleeping. It may not be the most financially practical method of travel, but it's certainly the most comfortable I've experienced.

Thanks to the diligence of the TSA before even leaving the states, my trip through immigration and customs was a breeze. A cardboard box I'd packed as my third piece of luggage had been searched and resealed with conspicuous TSA labeled tape. No need to search the guy who's already been scrutinized by his own country!

My first full day in Nagoya involved a brief walking tour of the area, a visit to an enormous cemetery park, and an introduction to a few of the area stores. I thought I lived in a convenient location in Detroit, but this is urban living at its finest. This apartment is literally a block and a half from a nice grocery store, and you only need to travel a few blocks further for a 24 hour grocery.

The transition has been a little overwhelming to say the least, but I feel like I'm adjusting well so far. Sure this is the start of an extended stay in an amazing foreign country, but the real draw this weekend was arriving in town just in time for a long overdue date with A for Valentines Day. (hooray for a plan put in motion seven months ago) One day in, and I'm prepared to declare this trip an unconditional success.

Check out the latest batch of photos! I'll have a new batch in Flickr for each blog post featuring one. You can always hit the Japan collection via the link in the right column, or here.

T MINUS 46.5 HOURS

Roughly 167,600 seconds.  My brain is going to explode.

Parting Party

Tomorrow evening I'm having a bit of a send-off at Bastone, my favorite local brewery.  The place is hard to beat on a Tuesday, since Beer Club members (which I count myself among) get 22oz glasses of their microbrews for only $2.  Their beer is great, and those prices make you feel like you're in a college town!  The food is reliably tasty too, and while the service can be hit or miss, it's hands down my favorite local restaurant.

The invite email for this gathering was rather ambiguous when it came to the purpose and duration of my trip to Japan, giving several coworkers the impression that I'm actually leaving the company.  Ack!  Can't let that kind of misperception survive.  The days since that invite went out have been full of explanations, and I'm sure tomorrow will be no exception.  No matter how many times I run through the "Yeah!  I'm going to Japan for three months!" spiel, I'm really looking forward to a good old fashioned coworker outing just like in the bad old days of 2007.  Kanpai!

The packing has begun

My living room is slowly becoming buried in stacks of folded clothes and clusters of electronics with all their associated cords carefully coiled.  My packing process involves putting everything that's coming with me in the same location, and then figuring out the best way to get it all into the available luggage space.  I'm feeling good on available space, (hopefully not jinxing myself) but my main concern is keeping track of what is where.  Three months is a long time to pack for, and my living room floor is only so large!

While this method of packing ensures everything gets stowed in an orderly fashion, it also means that my lists have to be covered twice: once to get an item present, and again when it gets packed.  It's a bit more work than putting things straight into a bag, but it makes the measure of success is very straightforward: if there are no random items left on the floor when the last bag is closed, I'm set!

World Business Class

I've never had the distinction of flying anywhere First Class, and in wonderfully unexpected move A dipped into her considerable well of frequent flyer miles and upgraded my flight.  As if I didn't have enough reasons to be excited about this trip already!

The upgrade in some respects is actually quite practical.  I'm a tall guy, and not sitting with my knees jammed into the seat in front of me for fourteen hours is going to be a delightful change.  Also on the logistics front, upgraded status means I can bring an additional piece of luggage, and the acceptable weight on all three is increased.  The relaxed restrictions on packing will be greatly appreciated as I get my bags together in the next few days.

Then there's the ridiculous aspects of the premium travel.  With Detroit being NWA's hub, the direct flight to Nagoya is one of their flagship runs.  In the same way the Ritz in NY, NY is classier than the Ritz in Dearborn, MI, the service on this flight seems gratuitous even when compared to other first class flights.  A run-down of last month's menu for that flight:

 dinner

• Salmon and lemon-chive crostini, Asian beef tenderloin skewer, mixed nuts
• Caesar salad with Romaine, shaved parmesan, Roma tomatoes and toasted pine nuts
• Assorted breads


• Beef tenderloin with blue cheese crust, roasted carrots, Tuscan potato wedges and broccolini or
• Spinach-Boursin stuffed chicken breast, haricot vert, white and wild rice medley or
• Maple-smoked salmon with mashed potatoes, edamame and mixed vegetables 

 dessert

• Fresh fruit
• Rembrandt extra-aged gouda and havarti
• Cherry-vanilla ice cream in a chocolate-dipped waffle cup
• Your choice of port wine, liqueurs, coffee or Stash^® tea

mid-flight snack

• Ramen noodles, pepperoni pizza or yogurt and fruit parfait
• Light snacks available from our skybreak™ basket located in the galley. Please help yourself.

on arrival

• Fresh fruit and warm breads
• Coffee or a selection of Stash^® tea
• Cheddar and bacon omelet with roasted red potatoes and pork sausage links or
• Raisin Bran cereal or
• Cold plate of ginger pork, lemon-cilantro shrimp, grilled pineapple chutney, sweet potato salad and chili-orange broccoli

And those are just the listed items, not including the other option of the Japanese style dinner, never mind the wine list and root beer floats I've heard about.  Complete madness!  (And also quite exciting)  Some part of me will feel slightly embarrassed when I break out my huge camera to take a photo of each course I'm served, but it will be overwhelmed by the part that's giggling the whole time and enjoying itself too much to care.

Jag kan inte tala japanska

-translate the headline-

One of the common questions that comes up regarding traveling to Japan is language proficiency.  As a guy who had Spanish in high school and Swedish in college, I'm hosed.

My only hope has come in the form of some computer-based education: Slime Forest.  It's software that teaches reading Japanese in the thin disguise of an RPG game.  While written Japanese uses complex characters to represent subjects and actions, they also have a phonetic alphabet - Katakana.  According to A it's a useful bit of knowledge since many Japanese nouns are simply English words spelled out using the characters from this alphabet.  If you know each character's corresponding sound, you'll hopefully be able to decipher some labeling and signage.

As only my third time in a country that doesn't speak English as a primary language, (Canada does not count) I admit that I'm a little nervous.  There's still hope though... no matter how bad my foreign language skills may be, or how poorly I play charades trying to convey something to a local, I'll always be able to make sense of the anthropomorphic food!

Fridge Cleanout

What does ice cream, a loaf of bread, frozen shrimp, and green onions have in common?  It's the tip of the iceberg for food I need to use up before my departure.  Since I'm not doing any more grocery shopping, it's going to be a week of weird meals as I clean out the pantry.  Some things will be a breeze - oh no, twist my arm and make me have a larger serving of ice cream!  But some things like spare sticks of butter just aren't as easy to rapidly consume.  I've only got one more trash day, and I want to use up absolutely as much as possible.  Few things bother me more than wasted food!

Facebook Bump

Welcome visitors from Facebook! Feel free to browse through past posts, although I have to say the most interesting content is yet to come.

For those in my unique profession, this blog has proved to be an great learning experience... I'm running Google Analytics on the site, which keeps remarkably detailed statistics about visitors. I had no idea just how poor my personal site's visitor stats were until I fired up this Analytics account. Visitor geography, frequency, bounce rate, it's all available on a simple dashboard view, with the in-depth statistics available for closer review. If you run your own site, I'd highly recommend adding the simple tracking code and giving it a shot.

The point of the blog isn't all business however, it's primarily for fun. The curious, quirky, stressful, and exciting aspects of living in Japan for a few months will be on display, and I hope you'll stop by to check in and leave a comment!

Single Digits

I'm departing in 9 days.

(but really, who's counting)

Superbowl Sunday

Are you ready for The Big Game?  Wait, maybe I can't say that.  Well, regardless, lets plan a big party and we'll all watch it together.  Hold up, that's illegal.  I thought the fouls and penalties happened in the game, not attempting to watch it.  So if watching the game on TV isn't the way to go, I'm sure it's more fun in person.  If you have fun going through airport security, you'll be right at home in the stadium this year!

Despite all the restrictions, it's possible to watch the game live even in Japan.  A few quick Google searches pull up message boards full of people looking to watch the game with other expatriate football fans.  How (or why) you'd watch a football game early on a Monday morning I have no idea, but it's good to know that culture and time have no bearing on this momentus event.

Last Minute Shopping

I'll admit to going on a bit of a shopping binge this past week.  There are some significant differences that will prevent me from buying much in the way of clothes while I'm in Japan, so I need to be sure I'm prepared for just about anything for the two seasons I'm going to be present for in the upcoming months.

Normally I'm not much of a shopper... I virtually never leave the house without a reliable lead for a good price or the location of an item I'm on the market for.  That 'slim to none' level of shopping has trended much closer to none since July: How badly do I really need new outfits when the person I'm most trying to impress isn't around?  Luckily, now is an excellent time to be gearing up a wardrobe.  With all the retail companies doing so poorly along with the rest of the economy, they're practically paying you to show up in their stores.  Of all my recent purchaces, only one item wasn't at least half-off its original price. (a sweater, 'only' 25% off)